Gordon’s CV

GORDON STAINFORTH
BA(Hons), MA(RCA), ARPS, FRGS
Royal Institute of Philosophy
Society of Authors

Early years

John and Gordon at their aunt Ethel (Glover)'s 100th birthday party, July 1960

John and Gordon at their great great aunt Ethel (Glover)’s 100th birthday party, July 1960. Photo: Murray Glover

Gordon Stainforth was born (a twin) in 1949 in Welwyn Garden City, England.

With his brother, John, he started writing his first books at the age of 8 (all of which he still has). This was then followed by an intense period making radio-controlled model aircraft – a hobby that John still pursues.

Gordon and John with their own design model aircraft, the 'Assegai' at Nomansland Common, Hertfordshire, in January 1966. Photo: Peter Stainforth

Gordon & John with the ‘Assegai’, their own design delta-wing model aircraft, Nomansland Common, Herts, Jan 1966. Photo: Peter Stainforth

At the age of 16 Gordon discovered two of his greatest interests, movie-making (at first with an 8mm film camera while still at school) and climbing.

Gordon & John on the summit of the Zinal Rothorn (4,221 m) 1967. Photo: Heinrich Taugwalder

Gordon & John on the summit of the Zinal Rothorn (4,221 m) 1967. Photo: Heinrich Taugwalder

On family holidays to Zermatt in 1966 and 1967 Gordon and John climbed their first alpine peaks.

In 1969 they made an ascent of the very long and dangerous ‘Fiva Route’ in Romsdal in Norway, an escapade that nearly cost them their lives. See ‘Fiva‘.

The next year they were both climbing Extremes in North Wales: they both led the classic ‘Cenotaph Corner‘, separately, on the same day.

John leading Cenotaph Corner, 19 August 1970 © Gordon Stainforth

John leading Cenotaph Corner, 19 August 1970 Photo: Gordon Stainforth

(Gordon continued climbing for 35 years until the onset of a serious eye problem in April 2007 – a ‘macular pucker’ – caused him to call it quits. Some pictures of his climbing career can be found in his UKClimbing photogallery).

Pizzo del Ferro Orientale 1971

One of the better Alpine climbs Gordon did, the LH Pillar of Pizzo del Ferro Orientale in the Bregaglia in 1971, with Mike Danford

John Syrett and Gordon Stainforth, Chamonix, July 1972. @Andy Long

John Syrett and Gordon Stainforth, Chamonix, July 1972. @Andy Long

Meanwhile, at Cardiff University in 1969, Gordon had found his most enduring interest, philosophy, for which he gained a First Class Honours degree in 1972. (The complete text of Gordon’s finals Honours dissertation: ‘On the Primacy of Matter‘, and also a complete list of Gordon’s Examinations passed). Despite the understandable protestations of his tutors, he then went to London and studied film and television at the renowned Royal College of Art Film School, here obtaining an MA in 1975.

One of the skills Gordon concentrated on at Film School was the use of music in film, an enthusiasm which culminated in him making a biopic of Beethoven in the last year of his life called ‘Out of the Labyrinth‘ starring Tony Britton. I have recently uploaded a huge amount of extra material relating to this film, film clips and stills etc. The complete film , too, is now on line.

Tony Britton as Beethoven

In 1975, fresh out of film school, Gordon went as representative of the British Mountaineering Council to the Trento Mountain Film Festival with Ken Wilson, editor of Mountain magazine and mountain guru extraordinaire. Gordon’s main memory is of doing some rather dangerous soloing on a small crag near Trento with Ken and some top Italian alpinists having had far too much Chianti … and meeting the world-renowned alpinists Pierre Mazeaud and Gaston Rébuffat.

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Film industry: 1973-86

One of Gordon’s first professional film jobs, while still at film school, was as a clapper-loader with the Oscar-winning cameraman Walter Lassally in 1973. Then, from 1975-85 he worked as a freelance Assistant Film Editor, initially in television and then in the film industry.

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Syncing up, ‘Making the Shining’, Elstree Studios, May 1979. Photo: Vivian Kubrick

His biggest break came in 1979 when he joined Stanley Kubrick’s The Shining at Elstree Studios as an Assistant Editor. When Ray Lovejoy, the Editor, fell ill in the final stages of the production in the following year, Gordon cut the last 30 minutes of the film, working directly with Kubrick. He then worked as the Music Editor, laying all the avant-garde music for the movie, which has now become something of a cult (See this website). There is also an interview with Gordon about it.

He then went on to cut the BBC television documentary, Making The Shining, directed by Vivian Kubrick (Stanley’s daughter).

Stanley Kubrick directlng Jack Nicholson in a scene from Making The Shining

Stanley Kubrick directlng Jack Nicholson in The Shining. From ‘Making The Shining’

After working for the Kubricks, Gordon was First Assistant Editor on five other major movies (Krull, The Dresser, The Neverending Story, Sheena and Legend: see Gordon’s main film credits), including three with Ray Lovejoy, and Music Editor for James Horner* (Titanic, Avatar, etc.) on The Dresser. (*Tragically killed in a plane crash, June 22, 2015. Hollywood Reporter and Guardian obits, and full list of credits.)

Peter Yates directing Albert Finney and Tom Courtenay in The Dresser, 1983

The Dresser leaving party

‘The Dresser’ leaving party, Pinewood Studios, 1983.

 

Four books on the British mountains: 1986-98

In 1984-86, when the Film Industry went into a periodic decline, Gordon bought a 6×6 medium format Hasselblad camera, and began an intense period of mountain photography.

 

Gordon carrying all his Hasselblad camera gear plus tent up to Hollowstones on Scafell, Cumbria, 1987. Photo: Zybszek Kotowicz

In November 1985, Gordon won the Mountain Landscape Photography competition at the Kendal Mountain Film Festival, and this encouraged him to begin his series of four award-winning, bestselling mountain landscape books:

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1991 Eyes to the Hills

1992 Lakeland: Landscape of Imagination

1994 The Cuillin

1998 The Peak: Past and Present

Lakeland

In this period, while working as a professional landscape, portrait, and industrial photographer, Gordon exhibited his work at a wide range of venues including the National Museum of Photography in Bradford and the Barbican Centre in London.

He also lectured extensively (between 1991 and 2001 at over 100 venues), notably to the Royal Photographic Society, the Alpine Club, the World Wildlife Fund, the Ruskin Society, and the John Muir Trust, as well as at mountaineering literature festivals in Buxton, Ambleside, Llandudno, Wakefield, and Banff (in Canada).

Also during this period Gordon won many prizes and awards for his work:

1989, 1990 ARPS, FRGS

1992 The Thomas Cook Illustrated Travel Book Award for Eyes to the Hills

Mike Lates on the summit of Blaven after completing the Greater Cuillin Traverse in a heatwave in 11 1/4 hours, September 1993. Photo: Gordon Stainforth, Fuji 690 camera

Mike Lates on the summit of Blaven after completing the Greater Cuillin Traverse in a heatwave in 11 1/4 hours, September 1993. Photo: Gordon Stainforth. Fuji 690 camera.

1994 The Banff Mountain Book Festival Best Book of Mountain Images for The Cuillin

Cuillin

1995 The Outdoor Writers’ Guild Award for Excellence for The Cuillin.

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Gordon filming at the Roaches 1998. Photo: John Stainforth

1999 The Peak: Past and Present shortlisted for the Boardman Tasker Award

Joe Brown on Right Unconquerable i1996

Joe Brown repeating The Right Unconquerable at Stanage in 1996, 47 years after making the first ascent

2000 The Peak: Past and Present shortlisted for the Portico Prize.

ThePeak

New directions: 1998-2009

In 1998 Gordon began a long term philosophical project, very provisionally called The Secret Meaning of Mountains.

1999 Photographic trips to the Grand Canyon, Yosemite Zion and Joshua Tree in America, and to the Everest region of Nepal doing photographic work for World Expeditions.

Sunrise over Nupste from Kala Pattar (18,600ft) c.7.15 am, October1999. Taken with Fuji 6x9 camera.

Sunrise over Nupste from Kala Pattar (18,600ft) c.7.15pm, Oct 1999

Lectured at a 3-day Robin Hood Symposium, Robin Hood of the Peak, at Nottingham University.

2000 – 2001 Worked on the umpteenth draft of a Science Fiction novel: Heven Haven (working title) and continued researching his philosophy book

In the summer of 2001, after the end of the devastating outbreak of foot-and-mouth disease, Gordon made a 145-mile circular walk of the Peak District in 12 days, starting and finishing in Derby, The Peak Grand Tour.

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Gordon on his 145-mile ‘Peak Grand Tour’, 2001. Photo: Freda Raphael

2002 Turpin, screenplay for Producer David Rose

Book sales of Gordon’s mountain hardbacks topped 43,000

2003 Revised Heven Haven (working title) for Tor Books, New York

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Gordon shooting for Activity Britain, 2003. Photo: John Beatty

Activity Britain. Directed five short videos on outdoor activities for Visit Britain 

Wild Britain. Directed two television test promos for the BBC, with Brian Blessed and Rebecca Stephens as presenters

Owl&Cragrat

2004 The Owl and the Cragrat, an anthology of climbing poems. Project Director and Co-Editor (with Marc Chrysanthou)

Continued research work for his philosophy book, now provocatively called What’s the Matter with the Matterhorn?

Rheged2007

‘The Crux’ exhibition at the National Exhibition Centre, Rheged, Cumbria, 2007

2005 The Crux: 150 years of British climbing in 25 images. Compiled and designed the 25th anniversary photographic exhibition for the Kendal Mountain Film Festival.

Expanded web design business activities. (In the difficult, lean years 2004-2010, Gordon designed 23 web sites, using the latest CSS and PHP techniques. Further details are archived at: http://www.gordonstainforthbelper.co.uk/design/webdesign.html.)

2006 Collaborated with Jeremy Barham of the University of Surrey, Department of Music, on the paper Incorporating Monsters: Music as Context, Character and Construction in Kubrick’s The Shining.

Worked in the Lake District with Griff Rhys Jones on part of the BBC series Mountains. (An extract from the programme can be found on the interviews page,)

Gordon&Griff2006

Gordon with Griff Rhys Jones in Wasdale, 2006, for BBC ‘Mountains’ series. Photo: Freda Raphael

The Crux photographic exhibition was at the Alpine Club in London.

2007 Appeared in two BBC TV series: Balderdash & Piffle and Mountains with Griff Rhys Jones.

In November, gave an hour-long presentation at the Ritz Cinema in Belper about his work editing the music score of Stanley Kubrick’s The Shining.

The Crux exhibition was at the National Mountaineering Exhibition in Cumbria and the Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival.

Continued research work on his philosophy project, now simply called Ideas Come First

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John & Gordon on Nomansland Common, Hertfordshire, 2007. Photo: Freda Raphael

2008 In March, Gordon was a judge at the Sheffield Adventure Film Festival, and also interviewed the renowned mountaineer Joe Simpson on stage before a packed audience. (Three extracts can be found on the interviews page.)

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Gordon interviews Joe Simpson at SHAFF, 2008

In November, Gordon visited Sir Roger Penrose in Oxford in connection with his ongoing philosophy project.

‘Fiva’ success: 2009-13

In July 2009, Gordon, with his twin brother John, returned to Romsdal in Norway, exactly 40 years after their very close shave on the mile-high Fiva Route on Store Trolltind, as part of the research for Gordon’s next book project. (See picture gallery of 2009 return trip.)

Troll Wall and Fiva Route from Nordre Trolltind July 2009

Troll Wall and Fiva Route from Nordre Trolltind July 2009. Photo taken by Gordon on a Horseman Super Wide 612 view camera with a 6×9 roll film back

2010 The main work of the year was the completion and revision of the manuscript of Gordon’s latest book Fiva: An Adventure That Went Wrong which was published in March 2012.

2011 While ‘Fiva’ was in the final stages of design and typesetting, Gordon made six major research trips to a wide range of aerodromes, museums and archives in southern England for his next book, a biography, George: The Fastest Man in the Air. He already has a major publisher interested in the project.

FivaCoverTh

2012 The year was dominated by the success of Fiva: An Adventure That Went Wrong (See website). It rapidly earned extraordinary accolades, 35 straight 5-star reviews on Amazon, and the biggest prize in the world: the Best Book of Mountain and Wilderness Literature at the Banff Mountain Festival.

Gordon was involved throughout the year in the marketing and promotion of the book.

Gordon giving acceptance speech for Best Book of Mountain & Wilderness Literature at Banff 2012

Gordon giving acceptance speech for Best Book of Mountain & Wilderness Literature at Banff 2012

2013 The first half of the year was spent with the continued promotion of ‘Fiva’.

In July Gordon returned with his brother John to the Norwegian Mountain Festival in Romsdal, and reached the summit of Store Trolltind, 44 years after their epic on the Fiva route. (Further details, pictures and movie footage.)

On the summit of Store Trolltind, July 2013

With John on the summit of Store Trolltind, July 2013. Photo: Iver Gjelstenli

John had a GoPro helmet camera with him and took this amazing footage of arriving back at the top of the Fiva Route, 44 years later. (Towards the end of the clip he’s shouting to Gordon, who’s the right hand of the two figures on the summit of Store Trolltind on the final frame):

Looking down the Fiva Route in 2013. Movie footage by John Stainforth

Looking down the Fiva Route in 2013. Movie footage by John Stainforth

Other movie clips can be found on this page: Return to Store Trolltind 2013.

Since 2013: Biography of George Stainforth, AFC, world speed record breaker, 1931

In 2013 Gordon returned to the research for his next book, a biography, now provisionally called The Nine Lives of George Stainforth, about the first man to fly over 400 mph.

2014 and 2015 were almost entirely taken up with researching and writing the first 300 pages of the first draft of The Nine Lives of George Stainforth.

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In July 2015, Gordon took part in the 35th anniversary celebration of The Shining and was interviewed by Lee Unkrich on stage at the Odyssey Cinema, St Albans, about his work editing the music, alongside Jan Harlan (producer), Diane Johnson (writer), and Garrett Brown (Steadicam inventor).

Interviewees on stage before The Shining screening: Garett Brown, Gordon Stainforth, Diane Johnson, Jan Harlan and interviewer Lee Unkrich.

Interviewees on stage before The Shining screening: Garett Brown, Gordon Stainforth, Diane Johnson, Jan Harlan and interviewer Lee Unkrich.

Gordon arriving at the Odyssey Cinema for The Shining 35th reunion, July 1914. Fellow assistant Adam Unger (CTA) behind.

Gordon and Freda arriving at the Odyssey Cinema for The Shining 35th reunion, July 2015. Fellow assistant editor Adam Unger (CTA) behind.

In 2016 the ‘George’ project was delayed for several months by various family upheavals, house moves etc., and by the acquisition of a veritable goldmine of new research material which arrived in a huge 22kg box from New Zealand:

This consisted mainly of letters written by George Stainforth to his lover in the late 1930s, which have cast the whole story in an extraordinary new light … I hope to finish a first draft of the book in 2017.

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